Pads, and Plungers - Submitted by
- You can reduce drag from the brake plunger
and pad by cutting off the bolts. Make sure the pad is installed
before you try to cut off your first bolt so that you obtain the proper
- When figuring out the proper length, do
not over-tighten the brake pad bolts. When you over tighten the
bolts the heads can pull through and you will lose your pad. The top of
the head should not be farther into the pad than the fibers that
show on the side. Besides, the more you tighten the bolt the more of a
bulge you produce on the side and create more wind resistance.
- Note the fibers on the sides of the pad.
Place one of the sides with the smooth fibers towards the front.
The pad will wear longer.
- Use a greaseless lubricant (WD-40 is NOT
greaseless) on the plunger. You will get much less road and brake
pad debris build-up on the underneath side of the car during the day.
- When working on a brake pad while it is on
the car, place a weight, wrench or, better yet, a piece of soft wood
cut to length, between the top of the pad plate and the bottom of your
car. This will keep the pad plate away from the car and make it
easier to work on.
- Use the same piece of wood and drill four
holes in it using the brake pad holes as a pattern. Over-drill the holes
to 5/16. Then place the pad over the holes and use a drill motor with a
screw bit to run the bolts into the brake pad a little ways -
allowing the bolt ends to pass down into the holes.
- When putting the pad onto the pad plate,
use a set of channel locks to grip the top EDGE of the pad plate and
leverage them against the bolt head area of the pad. This will push the
short bolt up through the pad plate and make it much easier to put on the
lock washer and nut. Following these hints on replacing brake pads
really speeds up the process.
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