MASTERS DIVISION SUSPENSION TIPS

DerbyTech - May/June/July, 1990

by Richard Morse


Many people have asked me about masters division suspension designs, and as you know I have always stayed pretty basic in this area. Of course, this is after trying many different suspensions. After all, being part of the old California Super-Flex team you know how we used to test. The following are some examples: valve springs, tuning wires to the kingpins, rubber balls, horizontal kingpins, and of course the ever popular I-beam axle.

There are two front suspension designs that I like that would meet the current rules for the All-American. First, is probably the oldest and most reliable and easy, using a 1/4 inch square nut and grinding it to a pyramid. Then drill out the threads so the kingpin can slip through using a locknut on top so it my be run loose, or tight depending on the track conditions.

The second design I like (the one used by Mr. Morse's granddaughter, Faith, to win last year's All-American, ed), is what most people call a springboard, except this one doesn't spring. On the next page is a basic drawing of this set up. Note how this design also allows you to run loose, or tight.

Both of these front suspensions have been very successful for me over the past 15 years when accompanied by my basic rear end mounting. For the rear, I always run tight using two threaded rods for adjusting the alignment. The rear axle can easily be bolted on top of a metal block, cut to the right height for the correct road clearance. All rear suspension parts need to be bolted tight. The rear is a very simple design and easy to build.

I hope that this helps some of the new builders, knowing they don't have to get fancy. Both of these systems will keep the crossbind out of the car. Keep it simple and fast.

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